Perched 1500m up a mountain 48km west of Da Nang, Ba Na Hill Station provides a welcome change from the coast.
The site was first developed by the French in the 1920s, who escaped the summer heat for its cool, mountain air. After a brief heyday in the 1930s the resort was abandoned and soon fell victim to the ravages of war and the encroaching jungle. Thanks to a high annual rainfall together with temperatures at a constant 17–20°C, dense forest growth cloaks the mountain, which is home to over five hundred species of flora and 250 of fauna. In the past few years the local authorities have poured money into Ba Na, converting some of the old French villas into guesthouses and restaurants, laying forest trails and a new access road and even putting in a cable car – a great hit with the locals, who come up here at night to admire the lights of Da Nang twinkling far below. Not that the daytime views are to be scoffed at, taking in the Hai Van Pass, Son Tra Peninsula and Marble Mountains if you’re lucky. Given the weather, you may have to content yourself with a more atmospheric scene of mountains wreathed in mist, but while it’s raining on the lower slopes, the summit may be above the clouds, enjoying brilliant sunshine.
Views apart, the main attraction is exploring the forest paths and wandering among the ruined villas, for which half a day will suffice. You may want to avoid summer weekends when the place can be packed out. A return trip by car or xe om from Da Nang will be pricey once waiting time is factored in – bargain hard – but Da Nang tour agents (see "Around Da Nang") also offer various organized bus tours, mostly in summer.